A Reporter Returns to China to Find it Richer, but Also Highly Paranoid.

Returning to China after decades away, a correspondent finds bullet trains, dazzling skylines — and a surveillance state more paranoid and pervasive than ever.Andrew Higgins riding a car past Tiananmen Square in January. He was at the square in June 1989 when the military assaulted people who were protesting corruption, inequality and inflation.